Clinical aesthetics products. FDA Delays Proposal to Ban Formaldehyde in Hair Relaxers Amid Rising Health Concerns

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THE WHAT?   The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has missed its own deadline to propose a ban on formaldehyde in hair relaxers, a decision that was initially set for April 2024. This chemical is commonly found in hair-straightening products predominantly used by Black women, which have been linked to significant health risks, including cancer.

THE DETAILS  In October, the FDA indicated its intention to introduce a regulation to prohibit formaldehyde in these products following extensive studies that identified a correlation between the ingredients in hair-smoothing products and increased cancer risk. However, as of the end of April, the agency has not released its proposed ban and did not respond to inquiries regarding the delay. This issue gained attention following a significant study by the National Institutes of Health, which found an increased risk of uterine cancer among Black women who frequently use hair relaxers.

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THE WHY? The delay has sparked concern among health advocates and affected individuals, many of whom are involved in class-action lawsuits against major cosmetic manufacturers like L’Oréal and Revlon. While Revlon has previously denied any link between hair relaxers and cancer, L’Oréal has stated that its products do not contain formaldehyde and expressed support for the FDA’s proposed ban, emphasizing its commitment to consumer health and safety.

The issue highlights broader concerns about the disparities in marketed beauty products and the potential health risks disproportionately affecting Black women. Democratic Representatives Ayanna Pressley and Shontel Brown have actively campaigned for stricter regulations on such products, citing the cultural and socio-economic pressures that have historically influenced beauty standards among Black women.

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Clinical aesthetics products refer to a category of products used in the field of medical aesthetics or cosmetic dermatology. These products are typically designed and formulated to be used under the supervision of healthcare professionals, such as dermatologists, plastic surgeons, or trained aestheticians. They are distinct from over-the-counter cosmetics in that they often contain active ingredients or formulations that require expertise in their application or administration.

Examples of clinical aesthetics products include:

  • Dermal Fillers: Injectable substances used to add volume, smooth wrinkles, and enhance facial contours. Examples include hyaluronic acid fillers like Juvederm and Restylane.

  • Botulinum Toxin (Botox): Injectables that temporarily paralyze facial muscles to reduce the appearance of wrinkles caused by repetitive movements, such as frown lines and crow's feet.

  • Chemical Peels: Solutions applied to the skin to exfoliate and improve its texture. They can treat acne, pigmentation issues, and signs of aging.

  • Laser and Light Therapies: Devices that emit focused light or laser energy to treat various skin conditions, including acne, scars, and signs of aging.

  • Prescription Skincare Products: Formulations containing active ingredients like retinoids (vitamin A derivatives), hydroquinone, or prescription-strength antioxidants to address specific skin concerns under medical supervision.

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